If you’ve decided to learn pointed pen calligraphy, you know how important the nib is when you write. At the same time, you will also realize it’s not as simple as inserting the nib into your holder and writing. You will encounter a few issues and challenges along the way. I’m hoping this post will help sort these out for you.

WHAT IS A NIB? WHAT IS IT MADE OF?

Simply put, it’s that metal thing you dip in ink when you write. It could be a part of a calligraphy pen, or it could be a separate piece that you insert into a holder.

Nibs come in different colors, shapes, sizes, levels of flexibility, material composition. There are broad edge/flat nibs used for gothic, slanted ones used for italics, and rounded nibs. For pointed pen calligraphy (like Copperplate/Engrosser’s Script or Spencerian), we use a nib with a pointed tip.

Most nibs are made of metal, usually stainless steel. However, there are some nibs that are coated with other materials either for aesthetic purposes (like that of the blue pumpkin nibs) or to prolong the life of a nib (like the Zebra G titanium nib).

The size and shape of the nib sometimes give us a clue on how flexible they are. Read on to the next section to find out how.

ANATOMY OF A NIB

The tip is the sharpest part of the nib which comes in contact with the paper. It produces the fine hairlines when you write. The size of the tip will determine how fine your hairlines will be.

The slit splits the tines and allows them to flex when you write.

The tines are the two prongs that split to give you those lovely swells/thick lines as the ink travels down to the tip when you write. The amount of pressure you use when writing will also determine how thick your lines become.

The shoulder is the widest part of the nib and gives the nib a level of rigidity. It sometimes also determines the level of flexibility. For example, nibs with wider shoulders will usually have a lower level of flexibility, as in the case of the G nibs.

The vent/breather hole is where the split ends. It lets air to pass through the nib which allows and regulates your ink flow to the tip. It also helps manage the tension between the tines when they flex.

The shank/body is what is inserted in your nib holder. It supports the tines as they flex when you write.  The body also holds the engraved markings which determine which nib you are using.

The tail/base/heel is the portion you initially insert in your holder.

The back portion of the nib will serve as your ink reservoir.

WHICH NIB SHOULD I USE?

The nib you use will depend on the style of writing you want and the level of thicks and thins you want to create. The higher level of flexibility, the wider the range of thicks and thins the nib will produce. For beginners, I suggest starting with less flexible nibs like the G nibs (Nikko G, Tachikawa G, Zebra G). The blue pumpkin nibs (Brause 361 Steno and Hiro 40), Hunt 22 and Hunt Imperial 101 nibs are also beginner friendly. Once you have a better feel of controlling the pressure when you write, you could work your way up to the more flexible nibs like the Leonardt Principal EF and Gillot 303. Everyone has a different set of nibs they gravitate to. Feel free to try out nibs and see which  would work best for you.

These nibs are currently in my rotation pool ranked in order of flexibility, 1 being the lowest and 5 as the highest.

From left to right: Sergent Major Superieure Blanzy no. 2500, Nikko G, Blue pumpkin  (Hiro 40), Penna Lus no. 1938 EF, Departamentale Cementee Blanzy no. 2552, Plume Tremplin Gilbert & Blanzy-Poure no. 160, Brause 66EF, Hunt Imperial 101, Hunt 22, Leonardt Principal EF

PREPARING YOU NIBS

Before you even begin writing, with your brand new nib, make sure they are properly prepped. When the nibs came out of the factory, they are coated to make sure they don’t rust easily. When you prep your nib, you’re essentially removing the factory coating. If you skip this step, you will realize that the ink will not stay on your nib. The ink will either not flow or just blob on the paper.

I have seen and tried several ways to prepare your nibs. Here are some of them:

1. Pen cleaner/Windex – This is what I usually use when I prep my nib. Put a few drops of pen cleaner/Windex on tissue/paper towel. Rub both sides of the nib gently for about 15 seconds each side. Rinse with water. Gently pat the nib dry with a clean cloth/paper towel.
2. Dish detergent – Use a mild dish detergent for this. Drop some detergent on the tip of a cotton bud/Q-tip and use this to gently scrub the both sides of the nib. Rinse thoroughly with water. Gently pat the nib dry with a clean cloth/paper towel.
3. Toothpaste – You may use an old toothbrush or one end of the cotton bud/Q-tip for this. Put a small amount of toothpaste (slightly less than pea size) onto your toothbrush or Q-tip and gently scrub both sides o f the nib. Rinse with water. Gently pat the nib dry with a clean cloth/paper towel.
4. Saliva – Yes, saliva. Gross at it sounds, it is quite effective. Our saliva contains enzymes/acid that is capable of removing the protective coating on the nib. If you are daring enough to try this route, spit onto a paper towel and use this to rub both sides of the nib. Rinse with water. Gently pat the nib dry with a clean cloth/paper towel.
5. Light it up – Some people use a lighter or a match to heat the nib and remove the coating. I personally do not suggest doing this since there are safer ways of prepping your nib. Also, there is a tendency to heat the nib too much that will just damage your nibs before you even get a chance to use them. But if you must, hold the body of the nib with pliers or a towel. Never handle the nib with bare hands since you could burn yourself. Expose both sides of the nib to the flame for a few seconds. Make sure you don’t touch the nib immediately after heating. Allow it to cool for a while. Rinse off any residue and gently pat the nib dry with a clean cloth/paper towel.

A few notes to remember:

• Before preparing your nibs, make sure your hands are clean and free from debris, dirt or oils.
• Always handle your nibs gently especially when rubbing or scrubbing them. You wouldn’t want to break off or misalign the tines.
• Avoid touching the tines after cleaning. Our hands produce oils naturally. Once we touch a newly prepped nib, it will just add another layer of oil and ink won’t stick to it as it should.
• If after doing a round of prepping and the ink is still not sticking/flowing the way it should, repeat the preparation process until it does.

For reference, the first two frames are what you should be aiming for.

WRITING WITH YOUR NIB

Dip the nib in ink. Make sure that you go past the vent hole when you do. Also make sure you don’t scrape the tip onto the bottle as this will damage your nibs in the long run. Tap your holder once or twice on the ink bottle to get rid of excess ink. I also suggest lightly grazing the underside of the nib against the opening of your ink bottle to make sure there is no excess ink and to make sure your ink doesn’t come out as a blob when you start writing.

Now, you’re ready to write! Check out my previous post for tips on writing with a calligraphy pen and preventing ink smears when writing.

That’s it for Part 1 of Nibs 101. Stay tuned for Part 2! More on nib care and troubleshooting ink flow problems in the next post.

Happy writing!